Travel to Tibet

 

 

A guide to travelling ethically and responsibly in Tibet

 


Overview

Tibet was invaded by the Chinese People’s Liberation Army in 1950. The Dalai Lama, the spiritual leader of the Tibetan people, fled the country in 1959. Since then thousands of Tibetans have followed him.

From the 1950s until the end of the Cultural Revolution approximately 6,000 monasteries, nunneries and temples have been destroyed. Hundreds of thousands of Tibetans have died as a result of the occupation. Repression and interference in the cultural and spiritual life of Tibetans continue to this day. Torture is routine and widespread and used against Tibetans who speak up against the occupation.

China refers to Tibet as "the Western Treasure House", due to vast natural resources which it is exploiting. Increased investment in Tibet is benefitting Chinese migrants and state companies with headquarters outside of Tibet.

When the Chinese government refers to Tibet, it is referring to the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). Free Tibet’s definition of Tibet includes not only the TAR, but also the former Tibetan provinces of Amdo and Kham which were amalgamated into the Chinese provinces of Sichuan, Gansu, Qinghai and Yunnan.

Current situation

Tibetan Uprising in 2008
Mass protests throughout the Tibetan plateau took place in the spring of 2008 against Chinese occupation. The protests were sparked by China’s increasing stranglehold over all forms of Tibetan life. The protests were brutally suppressed by the Chinese authorities and scores of unarmed Tibetan protesters were shot dead by security forces. More than six thousand Tibetans were detained, with many tortured and hundreds sentenced. Two Tibetans were executed in October 2009 for their alleged role in the protests.

Since the 2008 protests the situation in Tibet has changed dramatically:

  • Restrictions on travel to many parts of Tibet for both journalists and tourists remain in place therefore it is almost impossible to report about the situation in Tibet.
  • Freedom of movement is restricted and communication services can be curtailed
  • A number of Tibetans are serving prison sentences for passing information about the situation in Tibet, creating a culture of fear and self-censorship.
  • There is a heavy military presence on the streets of many Tibetan towns. There are also roadblocks, security cameras and in central Lhasa soldiers can be seen with guns on roof tops.
  • Hundreds of plainclothes police and informers watch the crowds.
  • In 2011 and 2012 there has been a wave of self-immolations by Tibetans. By the middle of January 16 monks and nuns had set fire to themselves, most of whom died. They all seem to have taken this desperate action to draw attention to the severe restrictions imposed by the Chinese authorities on their freedom to practise their religion.


 


      These images show the military presence in Tibet in 2009

 

Should I go to Tibet?


Arguments for travelling to Tibet: 

  • The Dalai Lama encourages foreigners to witness the oppression in Tibet and to inform others of their experiences on their return.
  • Tourism provides a window to the outside world for Tibetans. 
  • Tibetans find the presence of tourists in Tibet encouraging.
  • Consider going to Tibetan populated areas outside the TAR in Sichuan, Gansu and Qinghai provinces, where you can travel without a special permit and you don't need to hire an official guide.

 

Arguments against travelling to Tibet:

  • Tourism provides legitimacy to China's occupation.
  • Most of the money you spend will go into the pockets of Chinese enterprises. The tourist infrastructure in Tibet is largely controlled by Chinese businesses with headquarters outside Tibet.
  • It is hard to travel in Tibet without tacitly complying with the Chinese regime.
  • Tourists are only allowed to travel to the TAR in an officially organised group, on an officially approved itinerary and guided by an officially approved guide.

There is no simple answer regarding the ethics of travelling to Tibet. Ultimately, it is up to the individual traveller. We have always felt that the arguments for going outweighed the arguments against.  But if you would rather not travel there, do consider visiting the Tibetan-populated areas of India, such as Dharamsala or Ladakh.

Know before you go

Be aware that any restrictions in place may change dramatically and without prior warning, as was the case after the March and April 2008 protests in Tibet and the Beijing Olympics. China has banned tourists from entering Tibet in June and July 2011 as it marked the 60 -year anniversary of its occupation.

It is also important to plan your itinerary, particularly if you are going to the TAR. Up-to-date information on visa and permit restrictions may be found on travel forums such as Thorntree, www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree

If you do decide to go to Tibet it is most important that you should be as informed as much as possible, so that you can see through the Chinese propaganda that you will inevitably encounter.

Click here to learn more about the situation in Tibet.

 

What endangers Tibetans?

  • Do not take pictures of the Dalai Lama into Tibet. Possession of such photographs is banned in Tibet and Tibetans can be detained for possessing one.
  • Do not engage in any discussion on sensitive topics with Tibetans. These would include mention of the Dalai Lama, protests or the legitimacy of the Chinese occupation. While the absolute worst that will happen to a tourist if found to have engaged in any political activity is likely to be a couple of days of interrogation followed by deportation, any Tibetan found receiving or distributing political material could face a lengthy jail sentence and  torture.
  • Do not hitch-hike as heavy fines may be given to drivers found giving lifts to tourists.
  • Do not depart from your official itinerary as this can cause huge problems for any Tibetans you may have met.

 

 

Should I travel on the Gormo-Lhasa railway?

The Gormo-Lhasa railway opened in June 2006 and connects China to Tibet.  It is a political project, constructed by the Chinese government to consolidate China’s presence in Tibet. It has already accelerated Han Chinese migration.  It has also enabled increased militarisation of the country and easier exploitation of Tibet’s natural resources, which are found along the line of the railway. In 2008 it was used to transport political prisoners.

However the railway is now a fait accompli and we no longer advise people not to use it.

Intercontinental Hotel in Lhasa

InterContinental Hotels Group plans to open a 2,000 room InterContinental Resort in Lhasa in 2012, in partnership with a Chinese entrepeneur with close government ties.

The presence of IHG, a globally recognised brand, legitimises China's occupation of Tibet and sends an incorrect message to the world that the situation inside Tibet is normal. Moreover it will be Chinese migrants and not Tibetans who will benefit from employment opportunities. Free Tibet advises you not to stay at the hotel. Read more about this campaign

How can I maximise the benefit of my trip for Tibetans?

Help to keep Tibetan culture alive. It is very important to use, wherever possible, Tibetan resources such as hotels, restaurants, guides and souvenir stalls. By using Chinese tourist companies, hotels and guides it is unlikely that your money will benefit Tibetans, or even stay within the Tibetan economy.

When visiting temples, monasteries or shrines you may wish to leave a donation, which will help maintain their upkeep. It is best to leave it on the altar or give it directly to a monk or nun. This will ensure it stays in the temple. You may also wish to give a small donation to pilgrims from rural Tibet.

Free Tibet can recommend one ethical travel agency: The Himalayan Adventure Company. Based in the UK, it offers small group and tailor-made travel in Tibet and other regions of the Himalayas.
 


How can I help when I get back home?

  • Join Free Tibet’s campaign to end the Chinese occupation of Tibet.
  • Consider starting up a Free Tibet local group.
  • Tell your friends about your experiences and encourage them to support Tibet.
  • Think about sponsoring local organisations working in educational, medical or other relief and development areas. 
  • Consider writing an article to send to your local newspaper or a travel magazine.

We would strongly advise you not to take a print of this information into Tibet in case your luggage is searched. The Chinese would probably assume that you were going to engage in subversive activity and would investigate any contacts that you had made with Tibetans, however innocent they have been.

If you run a tour operating company and have any questions about ethical issues surrounding travel to Tibet, please contact us at mail@freetibet.org and we will get back to you as soon as possible.

To learn more about the effect of tourism on Tibet, please click here.